Chilling
the batter slows various processes and conserves certain conditions so as to
promote the production of many small, thin-walled, crisp bubbles in the cooked
batter. For example chilling reduces the rate at which dried protein and starch
particles (mostly amyloplasts) and plant cell walls in the mix imbibe water and
lose trapped air. Warm batter favours fewer, larger, bubbles with thick, soggy
walls. Dipping the batter into oil at about 180C abruptly heats the material
and causes a popcorn-like reaction: water and air in the cells expand
explosively. The cell walls stretch and burst and are rapidly toasted,
maintaining their distorted shapes and forming fragile, airy skeletons that give
a good tempura texture.
There
are other factors too, for example tempura batter is not supposed to be
homogeneous; it is mixed lightly and the slightly clotted texture produces the
traditional bubbly appearance of tempura crust. The higher viscosity of the raw
batter when cold, helps maintain the necessary lumpiness. It combats convection
of the liquid and diffusion of water into cell walls, proteins and starches. In
warm batter water diffuses into the amorphous materials, making them soggy.
Cooking makes it stodgy and lumpy, rather than forming crisp, microscopic bubbles.