The smell of aromatic karoo bushes in South Africa is famous for
giving the meat of sheep that eat them a herbal aroma. It also affects
their lanolin. Even after repeated washing, any clothing that has come
into contact with such sheep retains the smell and also affects other
clothing in the same wash. What causes it?
Bess and Jon Richfield, Somerset West, South Africa
My apologies. The Karoo is indeed a region
in Southern Africa, an arid, inland region
that you might recognise as corresponding roughly to fairly open varieties of
European Maquis or North American chaparral.
The so-called Karoo
bushes are very varied, hundreds of species at least, probably thousands if you
include all the varied Karoid regions of the country. However, a large
proportion of them are very aromatic, by which I mean, not necessarily that
they incorporate benzene rings, but that they have a marked aroma, some of them
vilely so, some pleasantly, some very much a matter of taste or of extreme
distaste.
Chemically the substances that impart the
aromas vary widely and are produced by plants of several families, including
many in the Asteraceae, Rutaceae, Lamiaceae. Somehow however there seems to be
something characteristic to the "Karoo
smell", though I could not say just what, and it certainly does vary from
place to place. I think I can say with some confidence however that by far the
most of the smells are those of lipoid-soluble substances. Some people find the
smell to be herbal and bracing. Some like it in their mutton. Some can't stand
it.
Typical karoo is dominated by low shrubs, with many species belonging to the daisy family (Asteraceae), for example, karoobos (Pentzia spp.), bitterbos (Chrysocoma tenuifolia), kapokbos (Eriocephalus tenuifolia), and Pteronia spp. like P. incana (Laventelbos/Vaalbossie/Karoobos) and P. paniculata (Gombossie).What all these plants have in common are high concentrations of terpenoids (redins, gums) and other volatile oils which give the meat and wool that distinctive taste and smell. For instance, in the daisy Osmitopsin, the terpenoids are sesquiterpenoid lactones, characterised by the presence of a lactone ring. While the essential oil of the laventelbossie contains alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, sabinene and myrcene as main components.These mainly mono-terpenoids and volatile oils are absorbed by the long chain waxy esters of the lanolin in the wool of the Karoo sheep. The lanolin is transferred on contact (rubbing) and can not really be removed by water (washing). Lanolin's waterproofing property are well know by fishermen traditional Ganseys. Gansey (sweaters) have been worn by seamen and fishermen throughout the British Isles for centuries. Islanders can be seen wearing them in photographs taken early in the 20th century.Helmke, Cape Town
That was a very nice answer, impressive too! Are you doing post-graduate work on related subjects? If so, have you been able to find similar effects in other regions such as chaparral, maquis, etc?
Interesting question. The obvious answer is: it just does, but that's not very helpful. Why does feeding apples to pigs make their flesh taste of apples? Why does taking a beehive to a moor give honey a heather flavour? Why does feeding corn to chickens make their skin yellow? Why does asparagus make my urine smell odd?
Clearly some aromatic compounds (esters, I guess) are assimilated whole instead of being torn apart and rebuilt. This suggests - to me at least - that they are rare in the diet. Perhaps the local browsing herbivores can make more use of the compounds in question? Handwaving and thumb-sucking, as you might say. Anyway, you're the biochemist....
Hi Jon, i cannot answer your question but must say that Karoo Lamb is the best i have ever eaten, as a chef of 25 years i can safely say i have eaten plenty of lamb from all over the world. When i emigrated to SA a few years back it was one of the first things i tried to grapple with, pairing the Karoo lamb with the right wines and trying to tie in other flavours to compliment the meat, in the end i realised that the best thing to do with the lamb was to pot roast in a potjie and eat with large chunk of bread, the meat speaks for its self and needs no help...if i get an over gamey bit of lamb i sometimes will add some cranberry jam to a light jus which just breaks that gamey flavour........sorry i have digressed from your question.
Thanks. I am not wedded to discussing only my questions, so I enjoyed your interjection.
You might be interested, in the context of Karoo lamb, to know that I discussed my question with a Stellenbosch professor of meat science (I didn't know there was one; they didn't have one in my day!) He could not tell me much about the lanolin, but remarked that although he liked the "bossies" flavour of the lamb, many people unfamiliar with it do not. I got the impression that the farmers are avoiding the Karoobossie flavour for marketing reasons. Shocking, isn't it? Sort of like trying to remove the penicillium flavour from Stilton so that no none is offended by the smell? Another aspect is that you get bossies and bossies. Where we got contaminated by the lanolin was south of Uniondale. You would get different flavours in other districts, and possibly in other seasons. By way of a non-SA analogy, you would not expect sheep that had been browsing rosemary to taste the same as sheep on say, thyme or onion tops. I suspect that there is room for a huge specialist market in mutton, goat, cameloids and similar meats. The differences between strains, feeds and districts would dwarf the differences between olives for example. As you no doubt know, there even is a snob market in water from various districts nowadays!
How are you with ostrich? I am not fond of rare meat, and ostirch in my experience needs to be very gently done (either that or minced and curried) and then it needs a rather rich sauce to suppplement the lack of fat. One thing about ostrich though, is the gizzard, which is like a giant chicken's gizzard; quite delicious! I seldom see it in restaurants though. And do you know whether anyone uses the liver?
But I digress... <siiigh!>
Sorry about the dilatory reply; distractions and all that! Thanks for your comments and good luck with the festive season; as a chef you probably will need it!